lunes, 31 de enero de 2011

After One Week on la Isla

It is amazing that I have been here in my new home for just over a week.  It seems like a year has passed almost, and classes, my purpose for being here, have not even begun.  This past week I have gotten to know some of my fellow Colombian teachers in meetings, helped to rewrite the English curriculum, made the two trips that I believe I will be making quite frequently twice a piece, to Cartagena and Playa Blanca, learned (at least sort of) to make two authentic Colombian dishes, arroz con pollo and arroz coco, swam in the Caribbean in January, went to a huge and overwhelming mall, met a mayor, found Cuban rum, and even set up my hammock at least for a brief afternoon.  So quite an eventful week to bookend to what should be an even more eventful one with classes starting tomorrow with no schedule to boot (Eso es Colombia).  I will look forward to this week getting to know my students (and hopefully all their names soon if not this week) and settling into at least some semblance of a routine, access to a schedule permitting of course.  I am quite nervous about teaching but I feel I will do fine, and it is great that everyone here, my fellow volunteers, the other teachers, and my co-teacher Eric are all really supportive and will be both great friends and resources.
A Pickup Truck, a Ferry, and a Taxi:  Getting a Date With the Mayor of Cartagena
Thursday, we had a meeting with the mayor of Cartagena along with the volunteers that are here from the PeaceCorps.  The mayor, by the way, is a not so unattractive lady mayor who was of course wearing a dress that was really only appropriate for the lady mayor of Cartagena.  Such a shame in our country we only get to choose between Hillary Clintons and Sarah Palins for female politicians.
So we found out we might have this meeting, but were not sure.  Then we had it planned for late in the afternoon, and then Thursday morning we find out it had been moved to 2:30.  Of course none of us had made the trip to Cartagena, so we kind of needed someone to accompany us.  So we were ready to go at noon, and were planning on trekking the Santa Anan way:  moto taxi to the ferry, then bus to Cartagena, then another bus or taxi to the mayor’s office.  So we had to wait a bit on our accompanionment until 1, but fortunately we found out we got to travel high class to Cartagena in the back of the school’s pickup truck.  When we got into the city, those of us in the bed of the truck had to switch to a taxi to avoid la ley.  The cab driver had to stop to get gas, which provided the perfect opportunity for me to change into my nice shirt and jacket in the parking lot real quick.
So I arrived to the mayor’s in class and looking the part.  Our field director Tara gave a short speech, and the PeaceCorps guy a long speech.  Then the mayor did a little bit, we each introduced ourselves, and ya.  No photo-op or Caribbean kiss on the cheek or even handshake.  On another somewhat sad note, her office was right next to the plaza where Buena Vista Social Club was playing that night which we weren’t able to go to because we had to be back, so the setting up and sound checks were kind of a tease.  Hopefully there’ll be another opportunity before they are all gone.  But it was nonetheless an adventure and nice to see a bit more of Cartagena.  All in all a worthwhile 15 minute publicity stunt for all.
Saturday we did go back to Cartagena to help Tara move two apartments down and to celebrate her birthday.  We stayed at this nice little hotel right on the water fairly close to the Centro.  We did travel this time in true Santa Ana style on the motos, taking not the ferry but small boats (more like big canoes) across the canal, and the most lurchy bus I have ever ridden on into the city.  We ate at this cool Australian restaurant for dinner, and then went back for breakfast Sunday.  Instead of the Malecon here, people hang out at the wall of the old city, which is really cool.  There are even a few little bar places on it.  We did the old bring a few bottles and coke thing, the much preferred option.  I have to say I have been a bit let down by the rum here in Colombia.  Ron Medellin is pretty good,.  The stuff we had, I forget the name, tastes a bit like sunscreen, but it still does the job.  Supposedly there is some really good rum made in Manizales (Ron Caldas I think is the name) that I need to try, it just surprises me that there is not really good rum made on the coast.  I did find in the store Havana Club Anejo de 7 Años, which is pretty fricken awesome, though a bit expensive.  I will have to keep some around for special occasions though.  Sipping it this evening, I still say it is the best rum in the world. 
After the wall, we went out dancing and had a good night.  I will have to work on the front to back Colombian salsa.  I can do ok with the side to side Cuban style but the front to back is difficult.  Sunday we did some shopping for a few things and made our trek back to our little other world of Santa Ana from the big city, where the water for the whole pueblo was out but fortunately came back on this evening for a much needed shower.  A bit of class planning, cereal for dinner, a few sips of the 7 años, a bit of writing, and now it is time for some much needed sleep as well.

miércoles, 26 de enero de 2011

Colombia Ya!

Ok so I have been in Colombia almost a month now and its my first blog, so maybe I’m a bit behind but I've never been too big into blogging.  I just arrived in Santa Ana on Isla Barú this past Saturday, where I will be teaching English to 9-11th graders for the next 11 months after 1 month of orientation. 
A Quick Orientation to Colombia
On January 2nd I left Columbia, South Carolina early in the morning and that evening arrived at the city of Bogotá in another Colombia a little deeper to the south and a bit warmer.  I arrived along with 34 other volunteers as part of a program called WorldTeach that works with Volunteers Colombia to place volunteer English teachers in schools and universities around Colombia. 
Anyway, Orientation was cool and all but its over, so to quickly sum up:  We were 35 plus our teaching teachers in a Catholic retreat named Santa Cruz about half an hour outside of Bogotá in a town called Cota.  It was beautiful up in the mountains and lots of open space.  There was a sweet little lady across the street that ran a tienda and sold us beers and let us kill a chicken and cooked it for us.  We went to a cool cathedral built into an old salt mine.  Spent some time in Bogotá, hitting up Bogotá Beer Company was a highlight.  The beers here are not so bad, Aguila and Club Colombia but a nice porter was a good change.  I learned a lot about teaching, shored up my Spanish a bit, and made a few friends.  Everyone from the whole group is great but after 3 weeks I was ready to get out and see my reality for the next year….
 






Welcome to Santa Ana
That reality is this small pueblo of roughly 5-6000 named Santa Ana on Isla Barú, which is a peninsula the Spanish made an island by cutting a canal across it, leaving no land access but only a ferry.  Santa Ana is roughly an hour or so south of Cartagena on the Caribbean coast, at least by truck and ferry.  By bus and ferry or bus, ferry and moto taxi (the preferred Santa Anan mode of transportation) I am not sure yet.
Santa Ana is a bit of a different Colombia than Bogotá, a different world really.  It is a poor Afro-Colombian community with the overwhelming majority of the population in the lowest of second lowest income stratification level in Colombia.  At first glance it may appear to be a dirty ugly place with lots of trash and a few creeks of green sludge flowing through the unpaved streets.  However, even after only 4 days here, it’s clear this place has a beauty of its own kind.  Everyone I have passed in the street has been so warm and friendly.  There is always music playing even late into the night which makes the bedtime cigarette that much more lovely.  Sunday night, they trucked in 3 big speakers with names for a fiesta.  There are a few tiendas, a pandadería, a clinic, and one restaurant.
The school that I will be teaching at as well as where the eight of us volunteers here will be living is a charter school named Barbacoas.  It is this beautiful, huge, gated oasis with lots of trees, very clean, and all open-air buildings.  It is at once my home, my work, a peaceful refuge, a prison, and potentially an asylum.  The other 7 volunteers are all great, but all girls so maybe I will go crazy by the end of the year.  Fortunately there is a guy here who volunteered with WorldTeach last year at the public school in Santa Ana and is now a staff member at Barbacoas.  He will also be my co-teacher, which is great that he as experience and there will be no potential communication problems with him.
All this week, we have had meetings and planning for classes to start on Monday.  All the other teachers here at Barbacoas also live on site for the week and commute to their homes in Cartagena on the weekends, so we have a nice little school community that we are beginning to get to know in addition to Santa Ana.  We also get some delicious lunches here.  Today we finished early and after lunch went to Playa Blanca, a famous and beautiful beach at the end of the peninsula of Barú.  Doing as the locals do, we didn’t take a charter bus but Moto Taxis.  We piled on the back of motos two a piece plus the drivers and went down a winding, bumpy, unpaved road and it was awesome.  I was concerned I would bounce off the back of the moto a few times or that our driver’s engine would die, but after about 20 minutes we made it.  Swimming in the Caribbean in late January=terrific.  Much of the community works on Playa Blanca selling food, drink, or crafts to all the tourists that come so we met some of our neighbors and some of our students.  I will be looking forward to many more moto taxi rides and weekend days there at the beach.